March 24, 2007

Nutritionists Call Chinese Food "Unhealthy"

The Associated press reported Wednesday that nutritionists associated with the Center for Science in the Public Interest released a report last Tuesday that highlighted the health risks of food served in Chinese restaurants,

The AP account of this report describes a meal of General Tso's chicken, steamed rice, and egg rolls. pointing out that this meal is high in calories, high in sodium, and high in saturated fats.

This is the sort of thinking that Michael Pollan dissected and found wanting in his New York Times Magazine article late last January,

Someone is stacking the deck here. Both the main dish and the egg rolls are deep-fried in oil, while most fare at a Chinese restaurant is lightly stir-fried in a wok. Moreover, General Tso's chicken as I have generally seen it made, is mostly battered, fried chunks of chicken in a sweet, spicy sauce. A more typical dish served in a Chinese restaurant has more vegetables.

What's more, although Chinese food is singled out for nutritionist demonization, it's not even the worst cuisine. In a throwaway aside, the article mentions that both Italian and Mexican cuisines are worse than Chinese, according to the nutritionist ideology.

An uncritical reader will come away from this article with the message "Chinese Food Is Bad For You." But this is not true. This is the sort of dietary fear-mongering that the high priests of nutritionism have been foisting upon us for decades.

What's going on here? Racism? Xenophobia?

A person who tries to eat by Pollan's brief guidelines ("Eat food. Mostly plants. Not too much.") will have a much easier time of it at a Chinese restaurant than, say, at a diner.

AP has done the public a significant disservice by running this piece of scaremongering propaganda. And unless the piece's author has misrepresented the report they cite, the Center for Science in the Public Interest is in fact acting against the public interest in reporting such information.

Posted by abostick at March 24, 2007 06:05 PM
Comments

This is simply ridiculous. By current health and nutrition standards, you can't pick many ethnic cuisines that are "better" than Chinese food. Japanese, perhaps.

*sigh*

Posted by: Debbie at March 24, 2007 07:42 PM

It's obviously ridiculous.

The big question is: Why are we being warned off Chinese food? Whose agenda does it advance? Cui buono?

Posted by: Alan Bostick at March 24, 2007 09:51 PM

I think it's supposed to advance the agenda of the CSPI to get attention from the media. I assume attention = money. Beyond that? I'm not sure who CSPI is in bed with - presumably some part of the weightloss-industrial complex.

I just finished Barry Glassner's The Gospel of Food, which does a pretty good job of attacking the food police.

Posted by: Stef at March 25, 2007 01:45 AM

There are a million ways of getting attention from the media, and hundreds of thousands of them result in increased funding.

The particular question is why lie and mislead to promote fear of Chinese cuisine, when by their own account, by their own stated values, other cuisines are worse?

CPSR, it turns out, focuses almost entirely on nutritional issues.

Posted by: Alan Bostick at March 25, 2007 03:54 PM
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